Mrs Bridges Scottish Strawberry Preserve

Texture: jelly-like, stir a little if you like it more spreadable
Colour: brick red
Taste: like spring, it feels like you’re eating fluffy chicks
Sweetness: 6/10
Calories: 50/tbs

We had this Scottish jam with our scones in an attempt to replicate a Cornish cream tea from our vacation last week.

Cream tea was ubiquitous in Cornwall, with even farmhouses on desolate roads through the moors advertising that they served this semi-meal.  The format for cream tea appears to be two scones, a pot of tea, strawberry jam and Cornish cream.

A 2004 BBC article points out evidence for cream tea having been a Devon invention, with Tavistock’s Benedictine Abbey monks inventing it around the late tenth century.  Numerous articles fuel the Cornwall vs. Devon competition on how to eat the cream: under the jam or on top of the jam.  The BBC in 2010 then fans the flames, with Nick Rodda from Rodda’s Clotted Cream (which I enjoyed a few times on my trip) explaining the reason for the cream placement: “I would say that the Cornish make their cream better, and as my grandfather always jokingly said, ‘we always put our cream on the top because we are proud of it, Devonians are slightly ashamed of theirs so they cover it up with their jam’, but that’s a little bit of tongue in cheek rivalry.”

The Devonians argue that the cream on top puts one in danger of cream to the nose, but I found that Cornish cream, at least, was not runny enough to spring on one’s nose.  The poll on this Guardian article shows that the Cornish won out as the majority favourite.  Then again, a 2009 London Evening Standard article adds butter as a third spread.  Which I say is just crazy talk.  A cream tea scone with its jam and cream is rich enough.

This morning, my husband suddenly wanted to have one more Cornish cream tea.  As he is allergic to wheat, we adapted a regular scone recipe with some all-purpose gluten-free flour.  Then we walked to our neighbourhood supermarket to get some Devonshire cream – that’s the only clotted cream I have ever seen in our city and we are lucky to have a supply within walking distance.  Yet, at $6 including tax, a cream tea is an expensive endeavour.  The tea was a Tregothnan Earl Grey, from the only plantation that grows tea in the UK.

I can’t say how close the Devonshire clotted cream was to Cornish clotted cream, unless I sample them side by side.  Being a week removed from my vacation, this cream seems to match what we were looking for in recreating our Cornish tea experience.  The cream was sturdy enough to survive application on top of the jam.

The jam itself managed to stand up to the cream.  It was just the right amount of sweetness to cut the richness of the cream and its jelly texture was as smooth as the cream too.  This isn’t a jam with bits of roughage drawing one’s attention.  It would be at home on the most delicate of pastries.
One last note on the clotted cream.  Our cat Ivan also wanted to try a cream tea.  He got some bits of scones with the cream.  We also gave him a cup of milk.  He lapped up the cream and was off.

Muzzi Crema Spalmabile al Caffe

20120724-222031.jpg

Texture: gritty, as if some thick-necked muscle creep kicked sand into your Nutella while you were sunbathing
Colour: medium dark brown
Taste: Nutella for night owls
Sweetness: 9
Calories: 544/100 g (because I lost the paper box it came in, I copied this from my earlier post on the pistachio Muzzi spread)

You know how some shops have those signs about how they’ll give a free puppy and an espresso to unsupervised kids? This stuff will work just as well. Plus, it’s got that Hansel and Gretel “come hither” attraction that means a kid would actually down this.

I got this spread at that same fancypants deli that I got the pistachio spread. When I went there again in May, they didn’t stock any more. And after I had commended the owner back in January for it! I guess I’ll just have to order future servings online.
It was good, a nice improvement on other chocolate spreads. The semi-fine crumbles of coffee beans give it a sharpness that feels like you’re swallowing glass. Did I mention that it is a pleasant feeling?

 

Last Mountain’s Old Fashioned Saskatoon Berry

20120724-221913.jpg

Texture: smooth, almost liquid, with bits of fruit skin and pulp
Colour: purple wine red
Taste: grape-like, with a touch of tart
Sweetness: 6/10
Calories: 35/tbs

I picked up this jam from Southey, Saskatchewan at the Coombs “Goats on the Roof” gourmet market when I passed there during Victoria Day weekend. The jam made a nice breakfast in our motel room during those rainy days in Ucluelet. One look out the window to the west coast showers and jam and bread was the perfect comfort food. Unfortunately, we had no access to hot water for tea, except through the motel’s coffee maker. Even putting up with the coffee taint on our nice oolong tea, the water came out lukewarm.

So today, before I finish this jar, I am enjoying a cup of rose petal and vanilla bean Darjeeling with a slice of the stuff. To make up for it. I am more of a red jam fan, so this was quite nice.

Barbara and Barry Isaac moved from California to Saskatchewan in 1989, to the farm where Barry was born and where his grandfather settled in 1905. In 1990, they planted saskatoon berries and their small business took off. They seem like nice people (watch this video). They also don’t do much advertising (see this interview) – I had certainly never heard of this company until I saw it on the shelves. But I like them and I am sold on saskatoon berries. Plus, their jar is reusable, as it is a home canning jar.

Crofter’s Morello Cherry Premium Spread

20120708-092355.jpg

Texture: chunky, a few liquid bits
Colour: ruby
Taste: nice and sour, only gently sour
Sweetness: 3/10
Calories: 35/tbs

Originally I was snobby about Crofter’s, thinking it was a knock-off of Smother’s and I dreaded running into it in the fridge.

A few days ago, I gave it another chance. Just now I had my last helping, on some lightly toasted and buttered stone-milled whole wheat. Well, I will miss it and I would buy this again when I am in a cherry jam mood. It was not too sweet and pleasantly sour. Don’t get me wrong, I love the super sours, but pairing a jam with an Alishan tea requires a bit more delicacy.

Gabi and Gerhard Latka immigrated to Canada from Germany in 1989 and started their company in Parry Sound, Ontario. Their website states that they are “largest organic jam manufacturer in North America.” I’m rather intrigued by their other jams, as they use “heritage fruit varieties like Senga Sengana strawberries [and] Willamette raspberries.”

Back to today’s morello cherry flavour, the ingredients list them as organic, along the organic fair trade cane sugar, natural apple pectin, ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and citric acid.

By the way, the Crofter’s website also has a page of definitions of jams, jellies, preserves, fruit spreads and so on. The US FDA considers jams and preserves to be at least 65% sugar and 45% fruit, hence why Crofter’s had to rename their creations.

Smucker’s Double Fruit Apricot Spread

20120406-213148.jpg

Texture: runny with cube chunks
Colour: pale orange
Taste: homey, a little watered down
Sweetness: 3/10
Calories: 20/tbs

Now it’s time for the first jam face-off. On this slice, we have the Darbo apricot on the left side of the bread slice and the Smucker’s apricot on the right. I couldn’t quite get the camera lighting to show off what the human eye can see: the rich golden orange of the Austrian jam vs. the pale North American one. Judge for yourself:

20120406-213205.jpg

As I take an alternating nibble from each half, I can taste the difference a little sugar makes. The Smucker’s label says this jam has 45% less sugar and twice the fruit.

On the ingredients side, Darbo’s jam lists apricots (“produced from 50 g fruits per 100 g), sugar, concentrated lemon juice, and fruit pectin. Smucker’s contains apricots (ascorbic acid – i.e. Vitamin C, citric acid), sugar, water, concentrated lemon juice, natural flavour, locust bean gum, pectin and potassium sorbate (which, as a preservative, inhibits yeast and mould growth).

I had to look up locust bean gum. This page explains that the best locust bean gum comes from Portugal, with other production centres in Morocco, Spain and Italy. In food, it’s a thickening agent (weird since the Smucker’s jam is so runny), a gelling agent, a sweetener and a chocolate substitute. Locust bean gum is also used in mining, making paper, textiles, pet foods, cosmetics, shoe polish, insecticides, and as a flavour enhancer, according to Wikipedia. My layman’s guess is that the locust bean gum helped out with the 45% less sugar statement.

Overall, I would say that Smucker’s will do for the family who wants a cheaper brand. As long as you don’t taste them side by side, today’s jam should do the trick for dieters.

Darbo Rose Apricot Deluxe Spread

20120406-211644.jpg

Texture: gelatinous
Colour: golden
Taste: rich taste, similar to that of dried apricots
Sweetness: 5/10
Calories: 43/tbs

I started this post on Darbo’s other jam weeks ago, then I put away the jar and forgot about it. Digging it out from the fridge tonight, it was a great accompaniment to the remaining bread heels and the cup of peppermint tea. I’d forgotten how perfectly, gently sour it was. After tonight, the jar is almost done. I can’t wait for breakfast for the last bit at the bottom of the jar. You can bet that I’ll be buying another jar as soon as I can.*

*I.e. when I finish rating all the jam jars I got for Christmas.

Muzzi Crema Spalmabile al Pistacchio

20120406-211912.jpg

Texture: like running your fingers over satin
Colour: avocado green? Or is it pistachio green?
Taste: a delicate pistachio Nutella-like flavour without the chocolate
Sweetness: 7
Calories: 544/100 g

This Muzzi pistachio and hazelnut spread has been the joy of my last month and the bane of my workplace healthy eating challenge. I got this jar at a gourmet cheese and deli, along with the Muzzi coffee spread. The Muzzi website is only in Italian and German and the page of the other spreads is too pixellated to read. Probably better I don’t know what other flavours with which they would taunt me (the spreads are under Cioccolato).

Blogger Rebecca Winke of Umbria on the Blog actually visited the factory in Foligno, Umbria early last month and even reported on the hazelnut spread. Signora Loredana sounds cool.

Darbo Plum Butter

Plum Jam

This is Darbo plum butter from Stans in Austria.

Texture: smooth
Colour: dark burgundy, almost black
Taste: slightly sour, as you would expect from plums
Sweetness: 5/10
Calories: 42/tbsp

The label reassures us that we’re only getting plums, sugar and a smidge of lemon juice concentrate. Choose your bread wisely with this baby: I wasted a week of breakfasts eating it on fridge-cold seed-strewn whole wheat stuff. Next time I bring home a soft white bread from the supermarket, it will be the soft underbelly of this plum butter.

The company, Darbo, apparently started in Görz, now Italian Gorizia, in 1879, before relocating to the Tyrol. They get points on their website for the use of a toy theatre (it’s a nineteenth century toy, look it up), the opera music and the boozy recipes using their syrups.

First Jam

Langford Cranberry, Cherry & Carnation Compote

For my first blog post on Pulp and Pectin, my jam blog, I will start with Langford Foods’ Cranberry, Cherry and Carnation Compote. Its stats:

Texture: slightly gelatinous, only curled petals visible
Colour: watered-down red
Taste: generic red flavour (must be the cranberry), a tad raspberry-ish
Sweetness: 3/10 (with 10 being diabetic coma)
Jar: hard to get the last bit around the rim
Calories: 10/tbsp

From the local Langley-based Langford Foods website: “Cranberry, Cherry, and Carnation Compote is a year round favourite with the tartness of cranberries and cherries enhanced by a hint of clove flavour from our farm grown carnations.” The list of ingredients is reassuringly simple, along with the three title plants, the jam also had sugar (of course), water, lemon juice and pectin. Not sure how the clove snuck in there.